Up early, packed up camp, and were on the road by about 8:15. First to Tibooburra, to visit the Country Store. I love this remarkable little shop. Friendly people, lots of homemade goodies, a surprisingly wide range of foodstuffs (including Indian curries and imported European chocolates). Plus camping supplies and auto parts. We were there for fill-ups on petrol and butane. (The butane is essential because most parks do not permit wood fires. These created two problems in the past: wood carried in brought insects and disease that caused diebacks in several forests, and, of course, the occasional fire got out of control.)
Off on the Jump Up Road. A jump up is an eroded hill, like a low mesa or butte, and the books Richard had brought along on the trip said that they are characteristic of the eastern part of Sturt National Park.
Kangaroos, rocks, low scrub, isolated short trees, bursts of greenery along creek beds, jump ups visible on the near horizon. At one creek crossing, Richard mentioned that river red gums (which adorn most creeks out here) are the most widely distributed eucalypts in Australia.
Acacias are all in bloom, as are many other wild flowers. Mobs of kangaroos (and “mob” is the correct term for a group of kangaroos). The road is rough, but our surroundings are splendid. Before long, the Dingo Fence came into view. It follows the border between Queensland and New South Wales at the point where we saw it. The fence was started in 1880 to try to stop the spread of rabbits, which became a real and devastating plague. Then, in 1914, the fence was repaired to keep dingoes out of sheep-raising area.
For a short distance, we left behind the astonishing gibber plain and entered an area of red sand. The dunes were dotted with small bushes with yellow flowers and seed pods. They are members of the grevillea family and are known as desert rattle pods.
Then suddenly we were back to gibbers. Some of creek beds we passed or crossed were filled with pale sand, and others were an incredible jumble of rocks.
Another stretch of red dirt. This is my favorite terrain: red dirt and silvery to olive green scrub. It reminds me of the Red Centre. But Richard assured me there would be plenty more gibbers ahead.
Near Fort Grey, a depot created and used by Charles Sturt as a base for exploring the area, we turned off the 4WD track onto the main road, which was simply a broader, smoother dirt road, and headed for Cameron Corner, the spot where South Australia, Queensland, and New South Wales meet. (Cameron Corner was named for surveyor James Cameron, who established the borders of the three states in 1880.)
Into sand hill country—really rolling countryside. Through the dog fence at the South Australia border. Quick stop at the “Cameron Corner Store” for beverages (iced coffee for me). As remote as it is, this utilitarian store makes it obvious that this area sees a bit of tourism, as they have a gift shop and a cappuccino machine, as well as offering meals, fuel, minor auto repairs, and camp sites. Beverages purchased, we headed over to the actual corner, where the “Three States Pole” marks the point at which the borders meet. The pole is topped with a brass plate that shows exactly where the lines were drawn, and which state you’re in, depending on where you stand in relation to the pole. (For some reason, these sorts of lines are always interesting.)
Back to the red dirt rollercoaster. Dune after rolling red dune. We were crossing the Strzelecki Desert. Richard found us a level, sandy spot near a windmill to enjoy our lunch. Broad and open. Perfect.
Waltzing Australia 