Relatively leisurely morning. Though it was early, there were already occasional drivers passing by on the road. Whenever anyone passed, they would slow down, toot their horn, and wave. This was to be friendly, of course, but also to make sure we were okay, and not stopped because of an injury or car problem. Richard checked everything again, and then we were packed and on the road by just after nine. Our camp was about 100 kilometers from Birdsville, so our destination was getting closer. A return to gibbers makes us all appreciate having located that brief stretch of sand where we camped last night.
We are now headed into Queensland’s Channel Country. This sprawling region (roughly 60,000 square miles) takes its name from the channels cut by the many rivers that appear on those occasions when there is rain. Much of the time, the surface is dry, but there is enough moisture to grow the rough grass that supports cattle ranching here.
Rugged, red, rocky, and dotted with jump ups/mesas, this is dramatic country. The burst of greenness amidst desolation that signals the presence of water (even if the water is not visible) is always astonishing, but here it seems more remarkable, because the numerous channels mean more frequent greenery, but the intervening land seems to compensate by being rockier and more desolate. More grass means more kangaroos. More channels and then dunes—high ones this time (sign says we’ll have dunes for the next 11 kilometers).
It’s really beautiful here, in an unapologetic, unforgiving kind of way. Harsh but splendid. I am enjoying this landscape immensely. Alternating dunes and jump ups, mulga and acacia, bursts of noisy galahs.
Broad claypans appeared, one even with water. (A claypan is an area where there is a dense clay layer that doesn’t allow plant growth and poorly absorbs water, hence the standing water we could see. Not lovely, but fascinating.)
We crested a dune, and below us we could see the Birdsville race course. This currently deserted venue is the site of a famous horse race that occurs in September every year—three weeks from now, in fact. Every year, for a few days, the population swells from the usual 110 people to thousands. Begun in 1882, this event offers two days of racing, but also offers live music and other entertainment, plus numerous events for those who make the trek to this remote spot.
We crossed the Diamantina River and headed into Birdsville! A quick drive through town gave me a glimpse of this iconic locale, but Richard was focused on getting us to the caravan park/camp ground, so we could get a good place to set up camp before we started exploring.
I’ve read that Birdsville takes its name from the abundant birdlife attracted to the Diamantina River. Our camp being near the river’s edge, it was easy to confirm this explanation, as crows, swallows, magpies, larks, and kites were very much in evidence. The ablution block is a fair hike from the spot we got for setting up our tents, but the walk was well worth it, as we could have showers and do a bit of hand laundry. Also, it’s nice to have toilets again.
Sitting in camp, eating lunch, I could see two trees filled with corellas by the side of the river. A willy willy (aka, dust devil) blew through camp, stirring things up a bit. This mini-whirlwind was far more interesting as it left us than it was when it passed over us. When it was gone, we washed the dishes and headed into town to explore.
Waltzing Australia 