Onward, onto the gibber plains. (Gibber comes from an Aboriginal word for “stone,” and stones are what cover broad plains here.) However, while there are abundant gibbers, the terrain is not unvaried. There are salt lakes, clay pans, and scrub, and hills and buttes rise in the hazy distance. We share the open spaces with emus, kangaroos, eagles, and sheep.
Short stop at Milparinka. The name is Aboriginal and means “water may be found here” or “everlasting water.” Milparinka was at one time a successful gold mining town. Today, while it is now nearly deserted, it is worth stopping. The historic Albert Hotel, built in 1882, is a still operating Outback pub that still offers accommodation, as well as having a campground. Restored buildings now house an art gallery, a souvenir shop, and displays where you can learn about Aboriginal culture, Charles Sturt’s expedition, and the “boom” days, when the town grew to a population of 300 people. Trees nearby outline the course of Evelyn Creek, the source of the water promised by the town’s name. The surprisingly handsome Courthouse was designed by the same architect who designed the Sydney Post Office. Fascinating stop—but not our destination, so we were soon back on the rough, red road.
Ooops. Very rough road. Flat tire. But Richard is prepared, because this is a common occurrence out here. Tools. Spare tire. Air pump. A delay, but not a disaster.
And on to Tibooburra. While this town is remote and small (population 134), because this region is historically important, the New South Wales National Parks and Wildlife Service has a tourist information center here. At the center, a delightfully knowledgeable and enthusiastic Park Ranger not only told us where to camp, what conditions were like, and what wildlife was around at present, but also recommended a local handyman who could repair our wrecked tire.
Tibooburra is an attractively rugged little town surrounded by spectacular scenery. There had been a little rain, and a magnificent rainbow, almost a full arc, crowned the glory of our campsite, which was just a short distance away. Had to smile at the name of the site, however, as it does not suggest a lovely location: we’re camped at Dead Horse Gully.
It was our second time setting up camp, so everything went more quickly this time, as we all knew where everything went. Beautiful site. Astonishing rocks, beautiful trees, lots of birds. Yahoo. Bit of info from Richard: the great, round rocks are created by spheroidal boulder weathering, also known as onion skin weathering. Over centuries, wind and rain peel the outer layers of granite off these great boulders—similar to the rocks known as the Devil’s Marbles—leaving them remarkably round.
Lovely sunset. Surprisingly splendid dinner: red wine, lamb chops, green beans, teriyaki rice. Richard has a big gas ring with a wok and clearly plenty of experience. Very nice.
Nikki is filling in today’s entry in her diary, even as I write this. She says she has done this for 16 years, and not just when she travels. Fun to think of having such a record of life.
Can’t see the stars tonight, but the cloud cover means it will be a bit warmer than if it were clear. The wind is picking up a bit, but it’s still a gentle evening. No huddling and shivering like the last two nights. (Not to be forgotten: August is mid-winter in Australia.)
Our lanterns are attracting most of Australia’s moths, but thanks to Nikki’s spray, we’re not attracting mosquitoes. A bit of rain, then a break in the cloud and we could see stars, and then rain, stars, clouds—and to bed by 9 pm.
Waltzing Australia 