Trip 4: August 15, Part 2

As we headed the 20 or so miles to the Dig Tree, the red dunes of sand country came back into view. Across the border into Queensland’s Bulloo Shire. The Dig Tree is on private property, the Nappa Merrie Station, but because it is such an important historic site, it is kept open to the public. There is an entry booth where someone from the station (a hand or, today, the nanny—everyone takes turns, we were told) offers information and collects the $10 per car fee that pays for keeping the road open and the area around the tree cared for. (And for a slightly higher fee, one can camp nearby.)

The Dig Tree is part of the tragic story of the end of the Burke and Wills expedition. The explorers made it all the way across the continent, the first to ever cross going south to north, but when they got back to the camp on Cooper Creek, the backup team, which had waited for four months, had left—only nine hours earlier. The Dig Tree refers to a tree on which the back-up team leader, William Brahe, had carved a message about where to dig to find extra supplies that had been left for the explorers, in case they ever did return.

Seeing the Dig Tree was moving—but the stop was made more delightful by the presence of great numbers of correllas, plus egrets and herons. Then we stopped at another tree into which a portrait of Burke had been carved in 1898.

Then it was back to the wild road. Some compelling landscape and some merely astonishing. Clouds of galahs rose at our approach at one spot. We passed a few other cars, and out here, everyone waves when they pass.

Stopped in Innaminka to take photos of the surrounding area, and then headed to the general store again, for a few supplies. Topping my shopping list was a bottle of RID, a local product highly recommended by Nikki that both repels mosquitoes and, very necessary at this point, soothes the itching of the bites I’d already accumulated. (Down side of camping near water.)

Back at camp, I started the fire for cooking dinner. Now the sun is down, Nikki (who has a lovely voice) is singing softly, and Richard is grilling sausages and eggs. The birds are indulging in their usual evening symphony, with galahs and corellas making the biggest contribution to the background noise.

Nice dinner. We even had a steamed pudding, which was a grand treat. Companionable evening, as usual. Nikki and Richard went to bed at the usual 8:30, but I was feeling restless, so I’ve stayed up and am now writing by firelight—but also enjoying my surroundings. The Southern Cross is riding down the sky, but is still gloriously bright. I will probably only see it while I’m out here camping. Two other treats: I saw a shooting star and (quite remarkably) saw the grand sweep of stars overhead reflected in the creek (only possible to see because it is so dark out here). Glorious. And finally, to bed at the outrageous hour of 9:45.

Trip 4: August 15, Part 1

Beautiful sunrise—but noisy. Galahs, parrots, corellas, peewees, and several birds I could not identify broke into joyous cacophony as the sun peaked over the edge of the world.

The morning chill began to dissipate as the sun topped the trees and shone on our camp. We’re actually camped in what would be the bed of the river, if it were at full flood. As it is, we’re about 15 feet above its current level. Pretty amazing difference a little rain makes. The river is lined with river red gums and coolibahs (both large, handsome eucalypt trees—though thanks to the song “Waltzing Matilda,” more people outside Australia have heard of coolibahs). Nikki was heating water for our morning tea, and I quite happily got a photograph of her waiting for the billy to boil under the shade of a coolibah tree.

Nikki and I had a second cup of tea, while Richard changed the flat tire for the spare. I expressed my concern over this being such a rough trip, and Richard reassured me, “This is what it’s like out here. That’s why I’m prepared—and why I have insurance, for when it’s harder to fix than a flat tire.” Fortunately, he also expressed the sentiment that not traveling in the outback was not something he was willing to consider. Then, that task done, we headed off for a hike along the river, just to enjoy our surroundings, before heading out for the day.

Driving toward town, it was startling to see how, within yards of the lushness surrounding the river, the land became dramatically drier. We stopped at the nearby KING tree. Unlike other blazed trees in this area, this one doesn’t date back to the 1861 expedition, but was carved in 1947 to commemorate that this is the area where the expedition’s John King both survived and was found.

Into Innaminka, which was surveyed in 1890. First business was to get the flat tire patched. Then, since we haven’t had a shower in three days, we headed for the Innaminka public ablution block. The $2 “donation” seemed like a bargain, especially since there was plenty of hot water. Lovely.

The National Park Service office for this area is housed in what was originally a hospital established by the Australian Inland Mission (AIM). The building has been restored and, in addition to offices, houses a display of the area’s history, both European and Aboriginal.

Stopped at the town’s delightful general store to pick up lunch. Bought meat pies (yum) and Bundaberg ginger beer (spicy but non-alcoholic). One thing that caught my attention was a very practical product for campers: “toothpaste tubes” filled with condensed coffee and milk. Just squeeze a bit in your cup and add hot water. Clever.

After eating, we headed for Burke’s grave. This is where explorer Robert O’Hara Burke was buried when he was found dead near here in 1861. His bones were later taken to Melbourne and a monument was erected. Then on to the Dig Tree.