Tag Archives: Purnululu National Park

August 26, Part 2

Back at the 4WD, we drank lots of water, then “mounted up” and drove a few miles to the local heliport, where we had a quick lunch while we waited for the helicopter to arrive. I also popped some medicine for airsickness, just in case. It proved to have been a wise move.
Bungles -chopper arives
I had never been in a helicopter before, and this was an astonishing introduction. The doors of the helicopter had been removed, to offer unrestricted views as we flew. When Athena and Belinda saw that there were no doors, they asked to sit in the back seat, which left the seat next to the pilot for me. I couldn’t have been happier. The front window curved up overhead and down under my feet, so I could see straight down between my feet. There was no “wall” next to me, so my view was truly unimpeded. When we were well strapped in, we took off like a bullet. It was a bit windy, and we danced a little in the wind as we raced across the plain and swooped up and over the edge of the Bungle Bungles.

We hovered, swooped, went sideways up one long gorge, and tilted from side to side, to make sure the three of us saw everything. At one spot, the pilot simply turned us around 360˚ over the center of the range. Below us, the unbelievable, grotesquely beautiful Bungles opened up in gorges and chasms and hidden places that are off limits from the ground.
Bungles -chopper ride 1 Bungles -chopper ride 2 Bungles -chopper ride 3
The dodging and dipping did cause a bit of queasiness, but I was still absolutely delighted with the ride. With the doors removed, I could lean out of the helicopter and get astonishing shots. I had on headphones, with a mouthpiece for speaking and a switch, in case I wanted to communicate with the pilot or with Belinda and Athena in the back. Despite the earphones, I could here the steady wup, wup, wup of the chopper blades. It was really exciting.

After we were back and a second group had had a ride, it was time to continue our journey. We returned back up the shattered track out of Purnululu and into the eerie, lunar-looking Osmond Range.

We stopped for a short time to collect firewood, and then headed on to a beautiful spot in the middle of nowhere. Ghost gums and spinifex dotted the rolling red ground. After a beautiful sunset, the profound darkness of the bush made the stars appear even more spectacular.

In camp, we discovered that a cut Kate had gotten on her foot was showing signs of infection, which sent John off to get the first aid kit. John is a tall, wiry, amiable, but no-nonsense man. There was something wonderful about watching him hunched over Kate’s cut food, a hand-rolled cigarette dangling from the corner of his mouth, a cottonball in his very big hand, treating the wound with great skill and tenderness, at the same time explaining a little impatiently to the hovering women that he’d been treating tropical infections for years.

The night is brilliant, and we are settled once more into an amiable evening of conversation, much of it about what we have seen in the last few days.

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Trip 3:Saturday, August 26 Part 1

Sunrise, cool breeze, butcher birds, cockatoos, quail, kookaburras, crows, gum trees, pack camp, eat breakfast, and back to the ruinous road. We were headed around to the east side of the range. We stopped several times during our drive, to view (and photograph) the miles of unbelievable, layered, worn, red and black, Devonian-era rock. The shapes were like beehives, domes, pyramids, and hundreds of strange alien creatures crowded together.
Bungles-D2-Domes-Spinifex Bungles-D2-Domes Cluster
Also a delight, to my eyes at least, where the rounded pillows of spinifex that spread across the surrounding plains. I still think they look (as I had noted on my first visit) likes herds of golden hedgehogs.

Among the prickly humps of spinifex, spinifix pigeons hunted, pecked, and occasionally dashed for cover. They are lovely birds, but they become quite comical when they run, as they then look like wind-up toys.

When we reached the far side of the range, we parked the 4WD and began the hour hike into Cathedral Gorge. This was less strenuous than yesterday’s hike, so I was able to keep up–and was delighted that I could, as it was remarkable.
Bungles - D2-Hike to Cath Gorge
The red rocks rose around us and closed in. The weirdness and beauty of the place was almost overwhelming. There were pools of water that, because of the shade, lingered despite the heat. All rocks were worn, but some were eroded more strangely than others. It was all wonderful. We scrambled and climbed over the rocks of the sometime riverbed, heading deeper and deeper into the gorge.
Bungles - D2-In Cath Gorge-lighter Bungles - D2Cath Gorge-WeirdRocks
We paused occasionally to catch our breaths and drink from our water bottles, then we would continue on. Finally, the gorge widened out at the base, though the rocks overhead stayed close together. The water that only occasionally races through the gorge has, over the millennia, carved out a huge, over-hung, half-cave that echoed like the inside of a cathedral (hence the name of the gorge). The water we saw was just a green crescent in the pale sand in front of the cave. The temperature in this natural amphitheater was maybe 20˚F cooler than outside in the sun. It was wonderfully subduing, standing amid the towering red walls, inside the cool, sounding hollows.
Bungles - D2-Cathedral-lighter
We remained there for a long enough time to thoroughly explore and enjoy the spot. The acoustics were astonishing. John had told us it what to expect, but it was still amazing to experience it. No matter where you were in the huge formation, you could clearly hear everyone else speaking, as if they were right next to you, even if they were at the far side of the gorge. A perfect “whispering wall.” Then it was time to hike back out.

At the head of the gorge, we turned up Piccaninny Creek and hiked over an amazingly weird, craved stretch of rock that looked as though we were walking over the back of a giant granite crocodile.
Bungles - D2-Granite Croc-lighter
After a couple of miles, we diverted a short way off the track to visit a bat cave, which was absolutely fascinating. The cave was split in half, with the crack in the rock weirdly worn in graceful curves up toward the light. Because of the curving, the light was filtered and dim, but there was enough light to create a path on the floor of the cave that just drew me forward. Little bats would flutter before me and disappear up the curving crevice. It was magic. I turned and photographed the entrance of the cave, because it made the split rock more visible than it was from outside.
Bungles - D2-Bat Cave
During the hike back out, John led a few of us up a slightly steeper but amazingly beautiful path among the red domes. But it was all beautiful.

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